Cache hiders checklist

When you hide caches, you bring along most of the same things you have when you search for caches. Here are a few other things not to forget:

• Waterproof cache container
• Cache log (spiral notebook)
• Pencils and/or pens to leave in the cache
• Resealable plastic bags
• Trinkets to stock the cache
• Notebook to record information about the cache to submit to the Geocaching.com database

How to submit the cache?

Time for a little advertising. It doesn’t do much good if people don’t know about your cache after you place it. The Geocaching.com Web site currently has the largest database of caches and is where most people go to find information about caches. You need to have a free or premium account at the site to be able to post your cache, so if you don’t have an account yet, go to the site and sign up. (I promise that it’s quick and painless.) After you log on to the site, submitting a cache is just a matter of filling out an online form about your new pride and joy. You enter things like the cache’s name (think of something creative), its coordinates, the date it was placed, and other information similar to what you find when you’re looking at a cache description Web page.
If you’re having trouble trying to determine the terrain and difficulty ratings, head over to geocacher ClayJar’s online terrain and difficulty calculator, at www.clayjar.com/gcrs.
After you enter all the cache information, submit the form. Volunteers will check things like whether all the information needed is present, the coordinates are generally correct, and the cache meets the general submission guidelines. Keep in mind that volunteers don’t physically visit the cache because that would require thousands of people all over the world with a considerable amount of free time on their hands. The approval process can take up to a couple of days but is usually shorter. If you’re approved, your cache is added to the database. If you’re not approved, you’ll be informed why, and you can either address the problem and resubmit or discuss the issue with the staff.
If you’re handy with HTML and your Internet provider supports Web hosting, you can associate a Web site with your cache. The Web site might have digital photos, detailed maps, or anything else that supplements or complements the standard information found in a cache database entry.

What to put in your geo cache?

• Logbook and writing utensil At the very minimum, your cache should contain a logbook and a pen or pencil so other cachers can write about their discovery. (Pencils work better in cold climates because the ink in most pens will freeze); mechanical pencils are the best because they don’t need sharpening. The logbook is usually a spiral notebook with the name of the cache written on the cover. Some cache hiders paste their personal logo or some other graphic to the notebook cover. As the cache founder, you should write some profound thoughts about the cache on the first page.
• Identifying information The cache should have some information that identifies it as a geocache, describes what geocaching is, and provides instructions to the finder. (Non-geocachers often stumble upon a cache.) The Geocaching.com site has an information sheet in a number of different languages that you can print out and place in your cache; laminating this sheet is a good idea. Be sure to mention the cache’s name and its coordinates.
• Treasures Add some treasures to your cache. These should be unique and interesting items. Because geocaching is a family sport, initially put a mix of things in it that appeal to both adults and children. You don’t need to fill the container up like a stocking at Christmas. Many caches start out with 6–12 small items. If you want, you can add a hitchhiker or a Travel Bug.

Even though your storage container may be waterproof, always put your logbook and cache goodies into resealable plastic storage bags. This prevents your cache from turning into a soggy mush when someone inevitably forgets to seal the container’s lid.

Taking geocaching to the extreme

Although geocaching usually doesn’t require a high degree of fitness or special skills, a few caches out there might be labeled extreme geocaching. A cache might be perched midway down a cliff face, requiring climbing equipment to rappel down to reach it. And a handful of caches are underwater and can only be reached by scuba diving. (GPS doesn’t work underwater, so this would be the spot for a boat to anchor.) Obviously, these types of caches limit the number of finders but can be quite unique if you’re into challenging and technical outdoor sport.

Where you shouldn’t put your geo-cache?

After you figure out the land ownership issues, the next step is to ensure that your cache appears in the Geocaching.com database. The site has a series of common-sense criteria that a cache must meet to be added to its database. Generally a cache can’t be

• Buried: Covering it with braches or leaves is okay, but no digging, please.
• Placed in environmentally sensitive areas: This includes archaeological and historic sites.
• Placed in national parks or designated wilderness areas: This is a no-no. Sorry; them’s the rules.
• Placed within 150 feet of railroad tracks: Umm, this is for safety reasons.
• Placed anywhere that might cause concerns about possible terrorist activities: Use your post-9/11 brain. This includes areas near airports, tunnels, military facilities, municipal water supplies, and government buildings or bridges.
• Placed within one-tenth of a mile of another cache: This is a rule for adding a cache to the Geocaching.com database as well as simple geocaching etiquette.
• Of a commercial, political, or religious nature: Keep it neutral; don’t cache something promoting some business or cause.

The geocaching community polices itself fairly well. If you put a cache where it shouldn’t be, a cacher will probably let the Geocaching.com administrators know about it, and the cache will be removed from the database. After you select a good general location to put the cache, visit the area to figure out exactly where you’re going to hide the cache. Use your creativity to find a challenging hiding place: in a tree hollow, underneath bushes, wedged in rocks, and so on. The more experience you have finding caches, the more ideas you’ll have for good hiding places.
After you find your secret hiding spot, you need to determine the cache’s coordinates as precisely as possible. (Use the WGS 84 datum) This can be challenging because ofless-than-perfect satellite coverage. You might find the location’s coordinates changing on your GPS receiver every few seconds. Many GPS units have an averaging feature that compares coordinates at a single spot over a period of time and then averages the result. If your receiver does do averaging, get it as close to the cache as possible, let it sit for five or ten minutes, and then copy down the cache coordinates and enter them as a waypoint.
A manual approach to averaging is to set a waypoint for the cache location, walk away, and then come back and set another waypoint. Repeat this until you have 6–12 dozen waypoints; then examine the list of waypoints, and pick the one that looks the most accurate (generally the value in the middle of the list).

Location is everything

Just like in real estate or retail sales, location is everything when it comes to placing a cache. After you select a container, figure out where to put it. The location of your cache usually defines its success and popularity. I recommend doing some initial research to locate a general area to hide your cache. For many geocachers, visiting a new place with some unique feature, incredible scenery, or just gorgeous view is every bit as important as finding a cache. Keep this in mind as you use maps, travel guides, or memories from your own explorations to help you select a good cache location. An important part of your homework is discovering where caches are and are not permitted. The geocaching community tends to be very aware that the continued growth and success of the sport depends on good relationships with landowners.
If you want to place a cache on private property, always first ask the owner’s permission. Because geocaching is so new, many people don’t know what it is, so take the time to explain how the sport works. Always check with a governmental agency before placing caches on its land. You can contact the agency directly, try a Google search to see whether its geocaching policies are published on the Web, or talk with other geocachers in your area to get their experiences in dealing with different agencies. For example, the U.S. Bureau of Land Management recognizes geocaching as a recreational activity and tends to be friendly toward cache hiders who want to locate a cache in places other than wilderness or wilderness study areas. The U.S. National Park Service, on the other hand, prohibits placing geocaches on the land that it manages; if you’re caught hiding a cache on such land, it’s a federal offense. Yipes.

Selecting a container to hide the cache

First things first. You need something to house your cache in. The only real requirement for the container is that it needs to be waterproof, although sometimes cachers use plastic bags inside a nonwaterproof container. The size of the container determines where you’ll be able to hide the cache and how full you’ll be able to fill it with trading trinkets. Any container that you can think of has probably been used for geocaching, including plastic buckets with lids, breath mint tins, margarine tubs, 35mm film canisters, pill bottles, plastic Army decontamination kit boxes, and PVC piping. You’ve probably got a suitable geocaching container lying around the house or garage. Just for the record, the two most popular types of cache containers are

• Ammo cans: Made of military surplus steel, ammunition (ammo) cans work great because they’re sturdy and waterproof. (The narrow cans tend to fill up with trinkets quicker.) Depending on the terrain and vegetation, the olive-drab color makes ammo cans difficult to spot. You can typically get ammo cans for around five dollars or less from local or online Army surplus stores.They typically come in two sizes, based on the machine gun ammunition they once held:
• 50 caliber: 11 inches long, 5.5 inches wide, and 7–5 inches deep.
• 30 caliber: 10 inches long, 3.5 inches wide, and 6.75 inches deep.

• Tupperware: Rectangular Tupperware or other plastic storage containers are also a popular choice but aren’t quite as rugged as an ammo can. Sometimes a geocacher won’t reseal the lid very well. Plastic containers are cheaper and more available than ammo cans, and you can easily match a size to go with any cache. Some cache hiders spray paint the containers to make them blend better with the surroundings.

How to hide a cache?

After a while, you might get the urge to set up a cache of your own. This section discusses how to create and hide your own cache. It’s not that difficult, and most cache hiders spend $10 or less to set up their cache, which is some pretty cheap entertainment these days. It’s also a way to give something back to the sport.
Don’t rush out and hide a cache before spending some time finding caches. Searching for other caches will give you some good ideas and set expectations for creating your own. Check out Geocaching.com for the FAQs there as well as a complete set of guidelines for hiding and placing caches.